Parul Shah
 
Parul Shah at Kailash Mansarovar
 
Parul V Shah Age 25 Victim of 12th Batch Trip to Kailash Mansarovar.

TRAGEDY IN THE KUMAON :: AT MALIPA ON MANASAROVAR
ROUTE

A serious tragedy effected the trekkers and villagers in the Byans
Valley of the Eastern Kumaon. From the accounts in newspapers and
talking to some relatives of the pilgrims there is some indication as
to
how the incident occurred. The pilgrims who were en route to Tibet on
a pilgrimage to Manasarovar were camping at the Malipa Camping
Ground. The Malipa nala changed course at mid night and they were
buried in an mud avalanche recently. The tragedy occurred at about 3
a.m., in middle of the night and all were caught sleeping. We do not
know how many survived, if at all.

Erroneous descriptions of the trekking route has appeared in the
newspapers (Times of India, Bombay edition, 21st August 1998). The
pilgrim route is described as death-defying, 5 km of rock climbing
en route, only one person can walk at a time and many things were
written which is far from truth. If pilgrim had huge blisters on feet
it
shows his or her unpreparedness and does not make the track bad ! In
sensationalising the difficulties of the route thus, the true nature
of
the terrain is lost. The route is tiresome but not as dangerous as made
out to be.

The trek from Dharchula to Lipu Lekh pass is used for a Century at
least. There was an attempt to make it motorable also. It is a village
to
village track, which is used regularly. These tracks are at least 3
feet
wide. Only at certain sections, due to landslides it may be narrow. Now
the route from Dharchula till Narayan Ashram is jeepable. Ahead you
walk on flattish ground traversing far above the Kali river. From Jipti
a
steep descent leads to banks of the river and then at varying levels
it
continues above the Kali river. From Malipa one reaches village of
Budhi and Garbyang. Ahead Kuthi river (flowing from North) joins the
Kali and across the bridge is the village of Gunji. Route gets little
wilder ahead as you reach Kalapani, the last defence outpost on the
Indian side. From here the track climb to Lipu Lekh pass which of
course involves the difficulties of snow and height. The route is very
scenic and Nepal is always across the Kali river, which forms the
border.

The area is situated on a geological fault and is known to be prone to
landslides. Village of Garbyang (which is little ahead of Malipa) was
situated on a geological fault. Over the years it was sinking and
finally
the village had to be moved to a different location. Due to the steep
gorge formed by the Kali river the track passes through a narrow
gorge but it is always quite broad and maintained. The pilgrim Party
had
camped at Malipa at the only place available there and this place was
regularly in use. So the tragedy that stuck them was freak and due to
natural forces.

LESSONS TO BE LEANS FROM THE TRAGEDY (and suggestions
for future)

(1) Over the years we have not shown enough respect for nature and
that is the main reason why such a tragedy occurred. Many trees have
been felled and no attempt was made to look after the fragile soil
structures. We do not listen to Sunderlal Bahuguna and the other
environmentalist like him but the scientific evidence that they talk
about has to be respected. If something is not done these areas and
the
areas of the Garhwal will continue to take revenge and such tragedies
will occur more and more. The other tragedies at Rudraprayag in the
Garhwal is also similar in nature and a grim reminder.

(2) A pilgrim, Ms. Parul V. Shah talked to her family from Dharchula
and a post card arrived from her later. She stated that it was raining
heavily in the area and expressed doubts as to how the party can
proceed at all. As a trekker I can mention that best of parties would
have not moved (generally no trekkers visit the Kumaon and the
Garhwal in rains). But here a schedule had to be kept. So the pilgrims
were made to proceed despite inclement weather. This was also a total
insult to the prevailing natural situation. Weather and rains do not
listen to Government Tour Schedules and it is almost suicidal to
proceed in such weather. But thats what was done and everyone paid a
price. Extra days should be allowed to wait for weather and in case
of
such heavy rains --the group should be sent back as it was done about
the later parties --but after a grim tragedy.

(3) Preparations for a quick and proper rescue should be made well in
advance, particularly when so many untrained pilgrims are regularly
passing through the area. I am sure our army and ITBP is geared to look
after any tragedy, provided proper directions were given and they were
stationed at right spots en route. Like all disaster management first
few
hours or the first day is the most important and the help should arrive
in hours, not after days as in this case. We still hope that some of
them will be found alive

(4) The Manasarovar Pilgrimage is organised in June to August season
as the Lipu Lekh pass will have less snow during these months,
allowing for an easier crossing. But the walk through the Kumaon hills
on the Indian side is dangerous as shown by the tragedy. There are
several alternate routes and passes available from Indian side to cross
to Tibet and visit Manasarovar. Shipki la in Kinnaur is easier and in
dry
area to cross over. From Ladakh one can almost drive through to Tibet
via Demchok. These routes should be opened and untrained pilgrims
should be taken for pilgrimage from there.

HARISH KAPADIA

Following the general description of the Valley :
Byans Valley of Eastern Kumaon
(From the book HIGH HIMALAYA UNKNOWN VALLEYS, by Harish
Kapadia, published by INDUS PUBLISHING, New Delhi)

A thousand, two thousand passes,
Passes in the lands of strangers,
I will cross three thousand passes,
To go to my own country.
--Bhotia Song
AS FAR AS one can remember people have travelled over mountain
valleys, ranges and passes. They travelled for trade, for earning a
livelihood or for communication. Today travel continues for defence
reasons, government duties or in search of a livelihood. Some of us
trek for pleasure, to seek beauty and glean knowledge of those ranges.
Motives differ and that perhaps leads to a vast change of attitudes.
For
us each step is meant to discover beauty; for others it causes
inevitable
hardship.
The people of Darma, Byans and Chaudas (Kuthi-Kali)
valleys have always been travellers. Every winter they still descend to
the lower valleys. Formerly they had almost no connection with the
plains of India. Their trade, community interaction and life style were
all dominated by the people of Tibet, a region which extends towards
their northern borders. To the south-southeast lies Nepal. Hence they
had close links with both; in fact, they still own land in Nepal and
till it.
It is the British who penetrated these valleys. They named these people
Bhotias, a term now commonly accepted for the inhabitants of these
valleys or for all those who are Hindu in origin but follow Buddhist
customs. The Kali valley attracted many visitors and was well-known.
One of the pilgrim routes to Kailash-Manasarovar (over the Lipu Lekh
pass) leads through its fold. It is believed that in the Vedic era,
sage
Vyas stayed here; hence its name Byans. There is a temple dedicated
to him at Gunji. The lower valley Chaudas is named either after four
followers of the sage or it is so called because fourteen villages
nestle
there. Kali divides India and Nepal, forming a natural border.
The upper Kuthi valley borders Tibet to its east and north,
while Darma lies to its west. The Darma valley is bifurcated into
Lassar and Darma at the upper reaches. To its west lies Johar or the
Kala-baland-Munsiary area. All these valleys have many
interconnecting passes which are still in use. All the valleys had
connecting passes with Tibet leading to Gyanima Mandi or Taklakot
and trade flourished on traditional lines. But this has stopped since
the
borders were closed in 1962. Some trade, illegal of course, still
continues via Tinker la in Nepal.
The first thing that impresses a visitor about the Bhotias of
these valleys is their appearance. A large population subsists as
shepherds. Someone called it goat-culture. But the other half,
particularly the young, are seen in the latest brand of jeans and
jackets.
The educational level is high. They travel all over the country to earn
a
livelihood. Most of them take their surnames from the name of their
village. The one who is from Dar is Daryal; from Garbyang, Garbyal
and so on. So next time when you are in South India or in a big city
look around for a Kutiyal or a Sonwal or even a Sipal. One is amazed to
learn how far and wide the people of these valleys have travelled.
One of the interesting customs about which we had read was
that of rang-bhang.1 On a particular day, the marriageable boys and
girls of a village would come together and the festivities used to go
on
till most of them had found a suitable partner. Like many other things,
this tradition, though it still exists, is now dying. These people have
been the subject of a few anthropological and social studies because of
their remoteness and unique customs.2 They still present an
interesting subject before civilization fully takes over.
These valleys are also lined with many high peaks, e.g.,
Panch Chulis, Chiring We, Sangthang. Naturally mountaineers were
attracted to the region. Among the earliest visitors were geologists
Prof. Arnold Heim and August Gansser. They explored the Kuthi and
crossed Shin la to Darma in 1936. Cutting across to the west they
crossed the Ralam pass.3 The Scottish Himalayan Expedition (1950),
led by W. H. Murray, entered from the Ralam pass and attempted
Panch Chuli from the Sona glacier.4 In 1950, Kenneth Snelson trekked
extensively in the area. The party attempted Panch Chuli, crossed
Gangchal Dhura and recorded their travels with a beautiful panorama.5
Among the recent visitors we can find reference to an attempt on
Panch Chuli (in 1971) by a group led by Prof. C. K. Mitra.6 The
uppermost Lassar, Darma and Kuthi valleys remained unrecorded for
all these years.


The British divided Kumaon creating Garhwal. This was of
course resented by the Kumaonis. Now there is a demand for
Uttarakhand (northern land) joining both areas. People here are avid
travellers and did a roaring trade with Tibet. Three major divisions of
Kumaon had interaction with each other and Tibet.
Byans Valley
The easternmost part of Kumaon comprises the Kali river,
running from Lipu Lekh to form the boundary between India and Nepal,
Kuthi, Darma and Lassar merge into Kali at various points. Vyas
(Byans) rishi, a sage who wrote the Mahabharat is believed to have
lived here, giving the area its name. There is a temple dedicated to
him
above Gunji. The pilgrim route to Manasarovar passed along the Kali
and is again frequented by many today--the route having been reopened
to pilgrim traffic.
Near Lipu Lekh on the route to Tibet, from a small temple
of Kali, starts this black river. At Gunji, the Kuthi river merges with
Kali which forms the Indo-Nepal border. As the legend goes, it was the
Britishers who interchanged the names of white Kali (meaning black)
and blackish Kuthi rivers. This ensured a vast area of land as British
territory as Kali was always accepted as the border. They built the
above temple to authenticate the name--a good example of British
practical diplomacy.
Another intrigue followed in the area in 1960. A contract
was given to build a motorable road from Almora to Lipu Lekh pass to
facilitate pilgrim traffic. The contractor was persuaded by the Chinese
to start the construction in reverse--from the pass to Almora. This
would allow a good deal of strategic advantage to the Chinese to
descend to the lower valleys. The folly of this was discovered and the
road blown up. It has reached just beyond Tawaghat yet!
Kuthi emerges from Jolingkong lake 4630 m which is as
beautiful as any. Passes of Mangsha Dhura and Lampiya Dhura are
close at hand. Sangthang, 6480 m, is the only peak of note here and was
climbed in 1968 (Indian, P. Dasgupta).
Shin la (5495 m) has a nasty reputation and it leads to the
smaller upper Darma valley. It is the route to Nuwe and Lowe Dhura
passes to Tibet. Further west Gangchal Dhura 5051 m leads to the
upper Lassar valley. It was here, that the Scots arrived in 1950,
through
the Ralam pass (further west). But the Darma valley is most recorded
by A. Heim and A. Gansser. Their travels here in 1937 opened the area
to outsiders.15 They crossed into Tibet unauthorised and were ordered
to return and escorted back to Almora by the Commissioner. One of
them reported back over the high Traills Pass!
At Sosa village, the festival of Kandali to celebrate the
killing of the remnants of Zorawar Singhs army is observed every 12
years. The ladies go out in procession to destroy the shrubs of Kandali
(Sporelanthus Wallachii) growing every 12 years under which these
soldiers were hidden. Zorawar Singh coming from Ladakh, had reached
Taklakot, where he was killed in a battle in 1841. His demoralised
army returned along the Kali, looting the villages on the way. The
ladies resisted them and this is enacted till today.


From trek to Eastern Kumaon (in 1982) by Harish Kapadia, from the
same book:


The party came down from Shin la to Jolingkong lake and down the
Kuthi valley to return via the track from Lipu Lekh.

11 June was the rest day. We surveyed the surroundings. The lake was
about 5 km in circumference and still frozen. A small temple and little
cairns separated it from the roaring Kunti river. Jolingkong is also
worshipped as Chhota Manasarovar. We had heard about a pair of
Rajhans that lived here. But we had also heard that no one can shoot
them because the bullets went cold while shooting across the icy
lake. But the very thought of shooting was disturbing. The valley up
takes a peculiar S turn to Wilsha. Two passes, Lampiya Dhura (5547
m) and Mangsha Dhura (5486 m) leading to Tibet are a little ahead. A
large moraine bed in the Kuthi river was a reminder of a gigantic lake
that had once formed. We could not determine when the natural dam
had burst.
12 June. This was a day to remember. As we left the lake
there was a climb to a prominent ridge in the south. Walking leisurely
we observed three figures on that ridge. We continued and coming a
little closer were astonished to find the three jawans aiming their
Light
Machine Guns at us! We waved and that led to a scramble among them
to bunkers with L.M.Gs. still pointed at us. We were worried. Never
trust a gun, particularly as they had no live shooting practice since
1962! Hiding behind a huge rock unashamedly, we let Sher Singh go
ahead as he looked the most Indian among us. We were waved up
soon. The Officer talked to us but still a jawan kept pointing a gun
at
us. At last things were sorted out. The jawan very reluctantly
unloaded.
He was distinctly unhappy. For already he had visions of medals for
capturing three Chinese! They had just arrived and they thought we had
crossed the Tibetan pass. Shin la is not open till late in the year.
Credentials were established. They withdrew an alarm sent down the
lines in the valley. But all along our trek down we encountered curious
glances and had a story to tell.
By evening we were at Kuthi village (3760 m--14 km) which
has the most exquisite wood-carved houses. As we were seen off by a
local officer, he pointed to a small hill at the outskirts, with ruins
5 ft
high. This was Pandu Killa where the Pandavas stayed. According to the
legend a 9-storeyed building on that hill was their home. With a
mischievous chuckle he added, Since we have come it has always
appeared a little smaller! In the evening we camped at Nihal and on the
next day we crossed Gunji.
At Gunji, the Kuthi river merges with Kali which forms the
Indo-Nepal border. As the legend goes, it is the Britishers who
interchanged the names of the white Kali and the blackish Kuthi rivers.
This ensured a vast area of land as British territory since Kali was
accepted as a border. They built a temple dedicated to Kali near
Lipu Lekh pass to authenticate the name. A good example of British
diplomacy! An old man advised us now to follow kachhuve-ki-chaal
(tortoise walk) for the route down the valley involved many ups and
was rather tiresome. Here we joined the Kailash-Manasarovar pilgrim
route from Lipu Lekh pass well described by pilgrims to
Manasarovar.8 We were to suffer that curse of Kali. Because of the
narrow gorges it forms, the route climbs up thousands of feet a few
times and finally descends at Tawaghat. At certain places the track was
wide enough to be motorable. In 1960, a contract was made to build
the road from Almora to Lipu Lekh pass to facilitate pilgrim traffic.
The contractor was persuaded by the Chinese to start the construction
from the pass to Almora. This would allow a good deal of strategic
advantage to the Chinese to descend to lower valleys. The folly of this
plan was discovered. The road has not reached Tawaghat yet.
15 June. In three days we reached Narayan Ashram, 2775 m
via Garbyang (9 km), Malipa (16 km), Jipti (11 km), Ashram (16 km).
The place appears like a building in fantasy land. The location, the
construction and the atmosphere it generates is most conducive to
spiritual practice. The ashram was built by Narayan Swami in 1946 to
help the pilgrims to Manasarovar. With Api-Nampa in the southeast
and Panch Chulis in the northwest it is a place of rare beauty. A day
of
rest and we descended 1645 m to reach Tawaghat. Back to the heat and
to civilization.
 
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